A couple folks on Pixelfed asked me what camera I preferred, so I thought I’d do a thing here which may be linked to easily. The most important thing to note is that even a $100 Fuji X-E1 is a great camera which I could use happily for the rest of my life and not approach the “limits” of. None of this is necessary and always buy used.
I use a Fuji X-Pro2 like 85% of the time. It’s dependable, has an electronic viewfinder to the left rather than in a hump, and it has a proper shutter speed dial to pair with the aperture ring on almost all Fuji lenses. I’d like an articulating screen, but otherwise it’s perfect for me. I use the Fuji 16-55 zoom most of the time, the 35 f/1.4 some of the time, and a 55-200 and a variety of adapted old Soviet lenses rarely.
My Luxurious Nonsense Purchase this year was a Ricoh GR III. I mostly got it so that I’d have a camera with a big sensor which fits in an actual pocket. I don’t love it as much as I’d hoped,* but I use it more than I thought, so. For very specific uses, it is excellent.
*Spoiled by the Fuji.
My Luxurious Nonsense Purchase last year was this DJI Mini 2. I use it pretty sparingly because I am completely petrified of annoying anyone with whizzing noises, so it’s basically “only when I can be 100% sure I’m the only person for miles around”. It’s alright. Picture-wise it’s like a flying iPhone 12, which means it does pretty well for sunny landscapes when used to take pictures in Raw format.
Any film pictures are usually from this little Canonet. I’d mostly picked it up since they are (were?) pretty affordable and durable; my other film cameras are the ones I started on when I was little, which are all weird SLRs from long-gone brands with no light meter and limited-to-nonexistant parts availability.
I wanted to add Rizoma Vision LED turn signals to my 2020 Svartpilen 401 because the North American incandescent signals ruin the look of the thing, but I couldn’t find good answers to a few questions.
Most of the Rizoma sources indicate that resistors are not required, and that the signals won’t hyperflash. I assume this was true on the ’18-’19 bikes, but it’s definitely not accurate on the 2020s.
Rizoma includes an assortment of resistors with the indicators (and some nice plans of how to use them), but doing it per-corner is exhausting and (particularly at the front) there’s no room to incorporate them.
Rather than doing that, you can just pick up a flasher relay and replace the stock relay under the V-shaped plastic cover. There are two relays under that cover, and the flasher is the one to a rider’s left. You’ll just need to make two modifications to the new generic relay: (a) Cutting off the useless plastic tab, and (b) Changing the pins so that when viewing the connector from the top, clip up, the black wire is on the left, the middle position is empty, and the red wire is to the right.
I couldn’t find any resources on how to get into the wiring for the back. I’m guessing that’s because, having tried it, it’s super-easy. You just undo a single Philips screw to remove the cover, and then undo the two bolts (I belieeeeve 8mm Allen?) and the whole thing drops out and exposes the connector. If you’re using the Rizoma EE114H wiring adapters, you can just bundle all those up and shove them up in the tail section.
If you shove a throw pillow between the forks, it’ll support the headlight and gauge assembly so that you don’t need to remove the whole thing entirely. A little tight, but meh. Since the electrical system of these bikes is, by reputation, persnickety, I didn’t want to unplug anything I didn’t have to.
This was probably a poor choice, relative to a Honda CB300R or Kawasaki Z400, but it is a thematically-appropriate poor choice.
I really need to get new mirrors, though; those lollipops are both useless and ugly. For the time being I’ll just do crash bars, a radiator guard, and a plain black plate frame and bolts. I actually like the hugger fender, so the only other thing I really want to do is new turn signals… but that can wait a couple months.
I give you my magnum opus: the suppressed toolbox.
I don’t know why I thought this was a good idea, but it *does* work pretty well. At first it was going to be a new first aid kit for my car, then it dawned on me that the Trusco Y-280 is too small for that. Now I don’t know what to do with it.