I’m a grownup, and this new sparkly helmet proves it.
I wanted to add Rizoma Vision LED turn signals to my 2020 Svartpilen 401 because the North American incandescent signals ruin the look of the thing, but I couldn’t find good answers to a few questions.
Most of the Rizoma sources indicate that resistors are not required, and that the signals won’t hyperflash. I assume this was true on the ’18-’19 bikes, but it’s definitely not accurate on the 2020s.
Rizoma includes an assortment of resistors with the indicators (and some nice plans of how to use them), but doing it per-corner is exhausting and (particularly at the front) there’s no room to incorporate them.
Rather than doing that, you can just pick up a flasher relay and replace the stock relay under the V-shaped plastic cover. There are two relays under that cover, and the flasher is the one to a rider’s left. You’ll just need to make two modifications to the new generic relay: (a) Cutting off the useless plastic tab, and (b) Changing the pins so that when viewing the connector from the top, clip up, the black wire is on the left, the middle position is empty, and the red wire is to the right.
I couldn’t find any resources on how to get into the wiring for the back. I’m guessing that’s because, having tried it, it’s super-easy. You just undo a single Philips screw to remove the cover, and then undo the two bolts (I belieeeeve 8mm Allen?) and the whole thing drops out and exposes the connector. If you’re using the Rizoma EE114H wiring adapters, you can just bundle all those up and shove them up in the tail section.
If you shove a throw pillow between the forks, it’ll support the headlight and gauge assembly so that you don’t need to remove the whole thing entirely. A little tight, but meh. Since the electrical system of these bikes is, by reputation, persnickety, I didn’t want to unplug anything I didn’t have to.
This was probably a poor choice, relative to a Honda CB300R or Kawasaki Z400, but it is a thematically-appropriate poor choice.
I really need to get new mirrors, though; those lollipops are both useless and ugly. For the time being I’ll just do crash bars, a radiator guard, and a plain black plate frame and bolts. I actually like the hugger fender, so the only other thing I really want to do is new turn signals… but that can wait a couple months.
196k. So close!
I give you my magnum opus: the suppressed toolbox.
I don’t know why I thought this was a good idea, but it *does* work pretty well. At first it was going to be a new first aid kit for my car, then it dawned on me that the Trusco Y-280 is too small for that. Now I don’t know what to do with it.
The Iomega Clik! Drive: Always was relevant, always will be.™
A big toolbox made all the difference. I should have done this years ago. I blame Milosz.
The last stop on my “Royalex solo canoe” saga: a signs dot com order to which my entire life was leading up.
Finally got to take the baby canoe on its first trip, whereupon I promptly fell through the old cane seat. Hm. Since this was a camping trip with a fair amount of stuff that one might want to attach to a canoe, I was also a little bothered by the lack of bow and stern thwarts. Fortunately, for that there is “drill”.
“Ow, my butt” – Me.
Like a lot of ’80s-’00s canoes, it technically has a handle, but this arrangement sucks for tying to the car and there’s no place to hang a throw bag and whatever quickly. I had made little loops of line in these holes, but that’s hokey.
I can appreciate a cane seat, but I feel like a teal 25 year-old canoe isn’t the place for it. Rather than re-caning the one it had, I just used a spare that I got for my Wenonah Spirit II and thankfully hadn’t yet chopped down to size. I don’t really have any interest in using the nice backrest part, so this’ll do fine.
And for the bow and stern, I put in these rather nice handles. They were about six bucks a pop from Ed’s Canoe. They had about 2.5″ of extra material on each side, so there was a lot of flexibility on placement. Of course, for my purposes, the closer to the bow/stern the better.
Much better. I’ll need to refinish the factory thwart so that the woodwork is at least bicolor rather than tricolor, but that sounds like a January project to me. I now dub this “acceptable”.